Created By:	Frank Mitchell	Category:	Engine Engine
Date Posted:	02-14-02	Views:	7075
Title:	Timing Belt Replacement
Article:	Timing Belt Replacement First; let me make this clear from the start. This is a QUICK lesson in timing belt replacement. I would STRONGLY suggest that a repair manual be purchased prior to attempting this job. I am also assuming that if you are about to tackle this, then you have a decent knowledge of automotive tools and terms, and are not a total novice. To start with the timing belts on the Storm are a 60,000 miles replacement item; don’t try to stretch the time as it could cost dearly in the end. Gather the needed tools BEFORE you start. You will need the following; at a minimum a. Long 1/2 in breaker bar b. A set of 3/8 drive metric deep sockets and a standard set of metric sockets up to and including a 17mm (this should be 1/2 in drive). c. A set of metric wrenches (combination types work best) d. A jack to lift the car so jack stands can be installed. ALWAYS use jack stands, NEVER trust a jack alone! You can then use this jack to lower and hold the engine in later steps. e. A flat block of wood about eight inches square by one inch thick. f. A 5/16 in 12 point socket [for tensioner bolt] The following steps are taken loosely from the Haynes repair manual but will not be verbatim. 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Block the wheels 3. Jack the front of the car, install jack stands, and remove the right front wheel and tire. (You’ll thank me for including this step later.) 4. Position the engine at TDC on the #1 piston. 5. From under the car, remove both the left and right splash shields. 6. Place the jack, that you used above in step 3, and place it under the oil pan. Place the wooden block on it to protect the pan from damage in the following step. 7. Jack the jack up until it is positioned under the oil pan and make it JUST snug. 8. Remove the right motor mount from the bridge and then remove the support bracket. 9. Now, lower the engine, with the jack, until you can get a socket (17mm), with the 1/2 in. breaker bar attached, onto the crankshaft pulley bolt. If you have a SOHC engine then four additional bolts must be removed. 10. A quick way to loosen the large center bolt, is to place the socket on the bolt and the breaker bar on the floor forward of the engine. Now, hook up the battery; take out of gear and just TAP the starter. This WILL loosen the bolt. NOTE: make certain that the crankshaft is still on TDC with the #1 piston. If it has moved reset it befo re removing the crankshaft pulley. 11. Once the bolt(s) is(are) out take two LARGE screwdrivers (or prybars if you have them) and place them between the pulley and the engine and pry off the pulley. 12. Remove the timing belt covers (or cover on the SOHC). 13. If working on the DOHC models it will be necessary to remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. If you have headers disregard this step. 14. If on the DOHC model remove the power steering pump. DO NOT disconnect the hoses. 15. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt. Do not remove the tensioner, you can move it by placing an Allen wrench (yes, it too is metric) in the hole in the tensioner pulley. 16. Remove the timing belt. NOTE #1: This a good time to change the water pump. If it should fail it WILL take the timing belt with it, so spend the extra time and money now, and save it later. 17. Now we will install the new belt by first aligning the notch on the crankshaft sprocket with the triangle mark on the front of the engine. (SOHC and DOHC are the same) 18. Now align the cam(s). On the DOHC model the cams have an alignment mark on each. These should be facing each other (inboard) and aligned with the machined surface of the top of the cylinder head. On the SOHC model the camshaft dowel pin is positioned at 12 o clock and the alignment mark is at 9 o’clock. It is possible that the marks are not in PERFECT alignment. You may have to move the cam slightly to achieve alignment. 19. Install the new timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket, water pump, tensioner and idler pulleys. 20. Slip the belt over the camshaft sprocket(s). Keep tension on the side nearest the front of the engine on the DOHC models. On the SOHC keep the tension on the side by the firewall. 21. Loosen the tensioner bolt and allow the tensioner to apply pressure to the belt and then tighten it to the required torque. Torque value 31 ft/lb on ALL engines. 22. Now, SLOWLY turn the crankshaft TWO complete revolutions by hand. Recheck the alignment marks for the same alignment as before. If not, then readjust the belt as needed and repeat the above turns. DO NOT attempt to start the engine until you are CERT AIN that the belt is properly installed. 23. Reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. NOTE #2: This is also a good time to install an underdrive pulley. 24. Now run the engine and check the operation.