Created By:	Albert aka djbounce99	Category:	ECU / Computer / Diagnostics
Date Posted:	10-06-05	Views:	916
Title:	Apexi SAFC-II Into N/A Isuzu
Article:	Before you start; * These are instructions for an SAFC-II (Gen 2) in a 1.6 N/A Isuzu * Make sure your dont have an CEL errors on your dash. * Make sure the battery is completely disconnected, both Neg+Pos. * When crimping wires together, its highly suggested that you also use good shrinkwrap tubing & wrap electrical tape around all work to ensure If any wires disconnect you help prevent shorting out your ECU, SAFC or Worse. * When working with TPS wire & RPM wire; youll want to splice into these lines. Do not connect these lines directly into the SAFC without sharing the line with the ECU, otherwise you run into CEL errors. When you cut into these lines, youll want to create 2 lines; 1 for the ECU & 1 for the SAFC or connect the SAFC+ECU wire together with the Sensor. * Give yourself more than enough time to complete this project including If this is your only transportation. 2-3hrs is a sufficient amount of time. * Removing the lower half of the dash makes seeing & wiring up the SAFC much easier. Use flat head to pop out cig lighter and control buttons on the left of the steering wheel. Once removed, you can easly see removal screws. Dont forget to remove the screw down below between the speakergrill and kickpanel & 1 more down below between the steering wheel & radio console. Tools Needed; Flat Head Screwdriver Pillips Screwdriver 10mm Socket 8mm Socket or Wrench Wire Cutters Crimping Tool Butt Connectors Shrinkwrap Tubing Electrical Tape 10-12 feet of Green 16-18 guage wire. Quick Overview; -SAFC- Isuzu Harness Red Wire = Power (remote wire) Brown Wire = 1st Ground (Black/Blue) Black Wire = 2nd Ground (Black/Blue) Gray Wire = TPS Signal (Yellow/Blue) Green Wire = Engine Speed aka RPMs (Black/Red) Yellow Wire = SAFC-to-MAP (Gray/Red to Sensor) White Wire = SAFC-to-ECU (Gray/Red to ECU) 1.) For the Red Wire (power), Use a remote wire. A wire that is only powered when the key is on. You can use the Radios remote wire or another other remote wire. You will not lose your settings when the car is shut-off. 2.) For the Brown Wire (ground 1), make sure it is closer to the ECU than the Black wire. Use an engine ground; (d3) Black/Blue Wire. 3.) For the Black Wire (ground 2), make sure its on the same wire as the Brown but with at least 3mm distance than the Brown wire. Yes the Brown wire & Black wire share the same ground on the harness. If there isnt enough distance between the 2 wires the SAFC will not turn on. 4.) For the Gray Wire (TPS), youll want to use the (c13) Yellow/Blue wire. Splice into this wire. 5.) For the Green Wire (engine speed), youll want to use the Black/Red wire that connects to the tach. I never found a Black/Red wire on the ECU harness but I found it much easier to run a line from the ignition coil to the SAFC & used the Black/Red wire off the coil harness. Itll save you alot of time just to patch a wire through the wirewall. Id suggest 10-12 feet of Green wire from the coil harness to the SAFC. 6.) For the Yellow Wire (map sensor to SAFC), youll want to locate (c11) Gray/Red wire, its side-by-side with the (c13) Yellow/Blue TPS wire. Cut the wire into two and connect the Yellow wire directly to the c13 that goes back to the MAP sensor. This line reads the incoming signal from the MAP sensor and will now sent it to the SAFC. 7.) For the White Wire (SAFC to ECU), you will now use the other end of c11 on the harness. Connect the White wire directly to c11 on the harness. This will send the signal from the SAFC to the ECU which will then modify the incoming MAP signal to change the fuel curve. When Finished Wiring; * Check to make sure there isnt any tension on the wires. They need to be kept fairly loose. Tension will lead to wires popping out. And make sure there isnt any used or unused wires exposed to prevent something grounding out. * Re-connect ECU and wrap in a towel or rag. Do not replace ECU back inside dash just yet. * Re-connect battery, check around the SAFC wiring to make sure nothing is sizzling or shorting/grounding out. * Turn key forward past accessory point, Do Not Start The Car, to verify SAFC comes on. Go to monitor mode and continue forward till you get a screen that shows Correction, Throttle & RPM. * With the car off, step on the pedal @ WOT. Verify the Throttle is at 100% on the SAFC. * Set everything back to Zero on the SAFC. You can quickly do this by going into etc and Initalize. This will reset the SAFC back to factory settings. * Set Sensor Type to Pressure and will asked for Sensor In & Out. This is a voltage limiter to the ECU. I've ran mine at 4in & 4out. That may change after Dyno-Tuning my fuel curve. Email me for a future update. The only Isuzu thats listed shows 6 In & 6 Out. * Set Vehicle Select to 4cyl & Throttle Up * Set Throttle Points 5% Low & 85% High * Verify Low Throttle Setting @ 0% Across the Board (e.g. 800rpm-8000rpm) * Verify High Throttle Setting @ 0% Across the Board (e.g. 800rpm-8000rpm) * Go to etc and select Sensor Check. Everything should be at Zero * Start Car, and first set of Numbers is your MAP sensor voltage. Should be bouncing around 1volt @ idle. * Ensure no CEL errors are on. Once running with no errors youve now completed wiring an SAFC-II into your Isuzu. Shut the engine off, disconnect the battery and put the ECU and wiring away and find somewhere to mount your SAFC-II. * To Tune your fuel curve, find a trustworthy motorsport shop that has a dynometer & ability to read A/F readings with a wideband O/2. If you can not find a local shop then you must install a wideband Air/Fuel gauge and find yourself somewhere safe to tune your A/F ratio. It is highly suggested you have a passenger making the correct adjustments while you drive. It is seriously dangerous to drive @ WOT and make adjustments. DO NOT rely on a narrow-band Air/Fuel gauge. You will not get correct A/F readings and will increase the odds of damaging your engine. A prime example of a narrow-band gauge would be an Autometer gauge. AEM makes a true wideband gauge but they don't come cheap.